| Date/Time: |
Sunday, May 30th, 11:00 am - 3:00 pm
|
| Location: |
Secos / Leo Carrillo / Arroyo Sequit
|
| Weather: |
June gloom early, eventually clearing to sunny skies.
Light westerly breezes.
|
| Conditions: |
Excellent to good, very clean, a bit mushy.
|
| Swell: |
Small SSW groundswell, 2 ft at 17 s from 195 deg.
|
| Surf: |
Waist to shoulder high with occasional single-wave sets
of head high surf.
|
| Comments: |
Back from a week-long trip to Louisiana which took
me away from the entire swell that hit the past week.
Don't everyone thank me for it at once.
Great to get back in the water and get a few waves
here and there. Best one I lucked into, spinning
over the body rock as I paddled back out and dropped
into a wave that one of the guys missed from the outside.
Worst was the last, a solid set wave off the middle
reefs that was rumbling fast to the inside when some
fool on a Becker paddled like a kook for the shoulder
and took himself up the face and over with the lip
backwards as he failed to make it.
|