Long time before I got another one. Sets very far apart, mostly breaking by the rock while I waited out on the reefs. ... waited... waited... waited... and got one, but it backed off and drew me right over the big rock. Had to go or get pitched, so I went, made the drop and bottom turn, barely past the barnacles, on my brand new board, but it wasn't done with me, started closing out. I dive for where I know the deep water is right next to the big rock and I hear shouts from the shoulder. Came up unscathed but feeling like a bit of a fool, despite not letting myself get taken over the falls onto dry rock.

That didn't happen again, but a few more closeouts did. The ones that stayed open were fabulous.

Lunched at Malibu and saw one good head high set roll through. Went back to check Secos again and it looked better, more consistent, but by the time I got back out there the tide had ruined the shape, exposed reefs and shallow kelp making all kinds of warbles in the wave. All the good sets were pure closeouts. Went in early after getting a few chest to head high waves, and rather than pushing back down to the 'bu for an evening session I headed home for some rest and to deal with sunburn.