| Santa Barbara Area Surf Report | |||
| October Overview | 1999 Overview | ||
| Date/Time: | Saturday, October 9th, 7:00 am - 10:00 am and 11:30 pm - 2:30 pm |
| Location: | North L.A. County and Secos |
| Weather: | Sunny and hot. Dead calm. |
| Conditions: | Absolutely perfect glass. |
| Swell: | Combination southern hemi, 3-4 ft at 17-20 s, with shorter-interval NW swell, 7-9 ft at 17 s. |
| Surf: | Very setty. Shoulder high to overhead and a half. Bigger sets at the right beachbreaks with good exposure to both swells. |
| Comments: |
1st session: Paddled out at a not-so-secret spot on the Malibu
coast with SurferBob. I wanted to surf all day while he had
a schedule to keep, so we arranged to meet here. This looked
like the place to be as my still-dark checks of Secos and the
Bu revealed closeout low tide sets and oppressive crowds,
respectively.
Despite the weekend crowds we both got some good waves. I stuck to backdooring the big peaks when they came and got a few overhead bowls that accelerated and walled out on the inside into a smokin' barrel. Never quite got into it, on a few waves I was just barely beating the falling lip out in the flats and on a few others I was out in front of the pit. We both tired of the crowd and inconsistency early; I went in and SurferBob moved down the coast. 2nd session: Grabbed a bean and cheese burrito and consumed it on the beach at Arroyo Sequit while watching the sets. Despite Charlie's warning that the tide was killing it, I felt like I was getting out there at a better time than Friday. Turns out I was right, with the shape holding throughout the session until the very end. Crowd was thick but pretty mellow and we largely traded off in round-robin fashion on the reefs as the still inconsistent -- but fabulous when they came -- sets rolled through. Maxed out my stokemeter on this session. It was as big as it could handle, with closeouts pushing double overhead and the makeable waves up to 10' on the face. At one point got three waves in a row, just spun and went right as I paddled back out, all three roping down to the stairs. The third wave I didn't even want -- tried to give it away but nobody would take it! Ah... shit... not another wave... Surfed until I just didn't care anymore. So liberating, to get a perfect 300 yd reeling overhead right and just not care about falling or missing a section. Opened my mind and tried lots of different moves, don't even remember the specifics of them now, just the feeling of freedom as I still made them all the way past the stairs. 3rd non-session: Feeling totally surfed out and sunburnt, I nevertheless made a stop at the beachbreaks on the way back north. I've never gotten goosebumps from watching a beachbreak before, but I got them today. Chicken skin all over as I walked out to a vista of perfect slightly offshore-groomed two-way peaks up to 2 1/2x overhead, grinding for 50-100 yds each way, as far as my eye could see up and down the beach. Burned out surfers collapsed in beach chairs on the sand, just shaking their heads and grinning. Best waves I've ever seen on this beach, and I just couldn't work up the energy to pull my suit on and paddle out with my stokemeter still redlined. |