Started off with an attempted casual spin for a wave as it drew me towards the face. Too casual! Tried to pull back but it was taking me over, so I bailed my board and attempted to fall over the back. That didn't work either, and I got drawn over as well, with my board lurking somewhere beneath me. After that I wised up and put my head down and paddled hard for every wave. Still got pitched once or twice and took a couple lips in the head on two other waves as I tried to get under the curtain on the takeoff, but no more pulling back past the point of no return.

The payoffs for those wipeouts were fantastic. No barrels but some outstanding, long backside verandas as the waves wedged off the peaks, peeled, and then either closed out on the inside sandbar or faded into a deep inside hole. The rights were sketchier, varying rapidly from fun to dredging. My one serious barrel attempt going right was slapped down by a mutant lip that hit me not only in the head but in the shoulders and chest.

We tried to stay on the same peak for a couple of hours and then eventually started drifting northward with the current. Drifted past Tim Curran and his brother, getting barrels and airs on one of the better beach peaks. Watched them for about 15 minutes after I got out -- this session will probably make videos and magazines as there were at least 4 cameras on those two at all times. I wonder if they got any shots of me?