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With the swell rumbling fast and hard down the coast
as dusk approached, the choice became: either see the
new surf movie tonight, or surf. I chose to surf.
Couldn't possibly get anything else done, would have
been too distracted by the big waves on the buoys.
Rincon wasn't herself, though, laboring under the
lousy breezes. The indicator wasn't working at all,
and while some strong sets very occasionally rolled
through the rivermouth, it felt like a sub-par day.
Got only one or two decent waves for a beachbreak,
let alone this classic point. Not much better in
the cove, this time largely my fault. The sandbar was
making some nice hollow pits that I fell over the falls
and into in the dark, cursing my nearsightedness as
I went under. Eventually survived one about halfway in,
then got my best ride of the day, a belly ride on a little
waist high ripple in the shorebreak that went a lot
farther than I expected.
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