| Date/Time: |
Friday, September 17th, 8:00 am - 10:45 am
|
| Location: |
Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo
|
| Weather: |
Gloomy and overcast, no wind.
|
| Conditions: |
Perfect sheet glass.
|
| Swell: |
Smallish 2 ft at 17 s southern hemi swell.
|
| Surf: |
Mostly around waist high on the inside, occasional
sets shoulder to head high.
|
| Comments: |
Jumped on the spurious 3 ft at 17 s swell report from the
Santa Monica Basin this morning and headed south. I knew
it was probably just a blip but took the shortboard anyway,
and I knew the water was going to be cold but I only took
a springsuit anyway. It was less consistent and more cold
than I anticipated.
Despite that I managed a few good waves by waiting patiently
for the 2nd waves of sets, letting all the aggro and rude
folks clear out on the first ones to sometimes leave me
something cleaner and bigger to play on. I might even have
heard someone hooting at my best wave, but they were probably
really laughing at my month-out-of-the-water style.
|