Classic conditions early on with the sets reeling perfectly through the lineup. The offshores feathered the lip of the accelerating inside sections to perfection. The only downside was that somehow I didn't find the barrels that others were getting.

Fast forward to the end of the session. A thick crowd getting thicker all the time, I'm thirsty and tired and actually a little hot in the new suit with the sun out. A rare set wave pops up on the reef, and I paddle deeper than I should to get it. The late drop in and rail-grab to backdoor the peak doesn't pan out, and I get washed onto the rock, hanging upside down with my board over the other side. Somehow I avoided any injury myself, and the guys at Surf Country were happy to see me bringing in more repeat ding repair business. Maybe I need to find a new surf spot.