Santa Barbara Area Surf Report |
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| August Overview | 2000 Overview | ||
| Date/Time: | Wednesday, August 16th, 11:00 am - 3:00 pm |
| Location: | Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo |
| Weather: | Sunny and warm, very nice. Winds slowly picked up into the afternoon. |
| Conditions: | Excellent, still very good despite the wind when I left. |
| Swell: | Holding 3 ft at 14 s southern hemi swell from 180 deg. |
| Surf: | Chest to head high with overhead sets. |
| Comments: |
After hearing the buoys push past 3 ft last night, I waited
a bit before making the drive so that the tide could come in.
Turns out this was probably a mistake as for most of the
session the reefs were pretty well buried. Most of the action
was right next to the rock.
Hate to admit it but I have to; I have lost my knack for taking off near the big rock. I spent at least two years surfing there, after moving in from the shoulder by the body rock and before I felt comfortable with tackling the outside lineups. Paddling in there today I realized I couldn't hack it, and never actually got into a wave. So I had to content myself with the occasional wave that would hit the first reef yet stay backed off enough that the crowd on the 2nd/3rd reef wouldn't pick it up. For a while there my session was just 1 wave, but it was an excellent one! Rode the 6'6" roundtail today for a change of pace, and the board just flies. So fast that on that first wave I was way out on the shoulder before I knew it, but somehow I still got a good cutback back off the whitewater before I blew completely out the back of the wave. Later in the day the tide dropped a little and the reefs came alive, and wave after wave to the stairs rolled in. Used the speed of the little-thruster-that-could to backdoor a lot of peaks and beat a lot of sections. Often had a guy or two in front of me but for the most part they got out. Took one longboard right in the knobby, tough part of my shin just below the knee, didn't hurt at all but it made a horrible crack! -- the guy was very apologetic and I was so stoked about the floater I got way past the collision on the racetrack that I accepted graciously. |