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Went out for an afternoon dip in the wind-chilled and
brackish chocolatey waters, more as a rebellion against
the entire weekend's unruly weather than because of
good surf. In fact, for nearly the entire session the
waves were pathetic and required a lot of groveling.
The swell picked up a little bit (I realize now after
getting home and seeing the buoys change) and a few
consistent chest high sets began rolling in, some waves
even as big as overhead. A couple of those and my outlook
changed from being ready to paddle in
to shore again to wanting more! That's when I got
the best two of the session, with the wind backed off
just enough to make the sections fun and makeable instead
of a closeout mess, and connecting hard full-rotational
carves on those waves made my afternoon.
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