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Strong northwesterlies on the overnight buoys had
me feeling pessimistic about a session today. It
wasn't until well past the optimal early morning
hours that I noticed the light winds on all the
central coast buoys. Got in the water as fast
as I could, which was unfortunately a little too
late.
An hour or so after I paddled out and got a bunch
of good head high waves, fast and pretty hollow,
the wind came on hard, blowing sideshore into
the waves. Didn't get anything while the wind
was blasting, and almost paddled in, but then
it just stopped, and everything glassed out. By
then the crowd had dropped to me and one other guy,
but with the glass-out the lineup began to fill again.
Grabbed my last and best wave, a late drop and bottom
turn just under the curtain, then raced the lip line
for fifty or so yards before getting a fun rebound off
an end section. Didn't carve the turn as hard as I
wanted, form is off after so little water time these
past few weeks, but it still was a great session-ending
wave.
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