| Date/Time: |
Saturday, July 22nd, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
|
| Location: |
Secos / Arroyo Sequit / Leo Carrillo
|
| Weather: |
Strange overcast and clouds around Pt. Mugu, but then clear
at Leo for about an hour before the clouds moved in there
as well. Still, it was warm.
|
| Conditions: |
Glassy.
|
| Swell: |
Weak and inconsistent southern hemi, just around 2 ft at 17 s
on the buoys.
|
| Surf: |
Waist to chest high on the sets.
|
| Comments: |
Expected weak surf, and brought the longboard. Weak is what
I got. Best ride was almost a disaster, buried the nose on
the takeoff and had to lean back to pull it out as I continued
to glide closer and closer to the rock. Got up just as the
wave got hollow, stomped on that back foot as the rail engaged
and I zipped right through it. No leash, right by the rock,
on the verge of getting pitched, what a rush!
|