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Kind of a marginal south swell, not landing on the buoys
like the forecasts and gorgeous WAM outputs had me hoping
it would. Still, it felt great to be in the water after
another two week hiatus. At least this time it wasn't a
whole month.
Very few waves hitting the outside, it was all about
surfing near the rock today, which I quickly decided I
no longer much care to do, despite years of doing
just that before finally moving to the pack atop the
reefs. So, I sat out there and got the few sets that
hit the outside lineups and was probably the only person
to dodge the big overhead and a half closeout set that
rolled into the third reef and crushed everyone else.
Getting waves out there was mainly a matter of will and
faith, and a healthy dose of patience. Easy to be
patient after a two week dry spell! So I got under 10
waves, but they were all quite fun, even some boosts
of adrenaline popping floaters as the waves went hollow
over the body rock. Hoping for some more of that with
the next swell to come on Friday.
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