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All the waves I wanted today but one, atop the Indicator
with very few people out, many of whom were paddling but
not catching much. Big drops atop the point that would
fade away into the rivermouth. Not a classic Rincon day,
but so uncrowded and so much better than
yesterday that I felt like the
proverbial kid left alone in the candy store.
Surfed around the whole point towards the end, fun but short
bowls in the rivermouth and longer but much smaller lines
down into the cove. Scratched into the biggest set wave
down there after, again, someone missed it, and laughed
all the way to the riprap. Sweet! Went home grinning and,
unlike that kid, with a hungry belly.
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