Santa Barbara Area Surf Report

Rode the 7'2" again, and this time really made use of it. A rather abstract big surf experience, with waves rolling in from outside as vague walls and then pitching pretty hard over the reefs. Had to paddle hard to get them, without much cue as to where they'd break. Lots of low tide current pushing the peaks around. Got pitched on a couple, missed a few more, and got many outstanding waves all the way to the shower stall atop C Street.

Best wave was the last, a very late drop (tired) followed by a harrowing bottom turn as hard as I could go, my hand literally holding me up as I tried to come around and get going down the line. It probably looked terrible, late drop way out into the flat followed by nearly falling over, but felt great once I followed it through and came off the top, and that's all that mattered. Saw many more waves better than mine, including several of the Secos/Leo locals out grabbing some choice ones, one of whom I saw get two or three standup barrels on some of the inside waves up by the rivermouth. No barrels for me but I'm still relishing the feel of the water under my hand on that turn as I write this report a week later.