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| Date/Time: |
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Tuesday, 8 April, 5:30-6:30pm |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny, warm, no wind |
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| Conditions: |
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Pretty Clean but holding up because of tide |
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| Swell: |
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2.6ft @ 17 @ 185° |
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Tide: |
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3.0 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Knee to Waist High |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
My first post-work session heading down south since last fall. Finally the sun is setting late enough to allow a southerly venture after work. Just in time too, since we are already in the doldrums of really flat conditions up in Santa Barbara but Ventura was getting a little bit of juice. Driving by Rincon there was a handfull of people in the water and a perfect little 1' wave wrapping through the cove. We continued on and ended up surfing with about a dozen other people on a point further south.
The waves were OK. Much better then the waves I was looking at during lunch in North Goleta. Some knee to waist high highly longboardable waves that were breaking a little funky...holding back a bit and then finally breaking. There were a lot of people out there for the conditions, but the waves were breaking in a couple of places so it was ok. The crowd was interesting. A lot of begginners but also just a lot of people that didn't fit the surfer look. It was pretty great to see the kind of diversity out there, all kinds of people from ethnic orgins not typically associated with surfing. That's good to see, coming from the bland world of surf chic in santa barbara.
I felt great to be longboarding again. I really have lost touch with my Walden and it felt so good to slip and slide it down the line in some afternoon sun. The water was still cold but the sun kept me warm. This one day of longboarding makes up for many weeks of floundering on my shortboard at local beachbreaks. I was able to catch a lot of waves and ride them for a long, long time. I was able to do some trimming and try to get to the nose. It just felt plain old good and I'm looking forward to some more longboarding this spring and summer.
At home, K-dog and I BBQ'd up some turkey sausages and veggies on the Smokey Joe and cracked up a cold one. god bless daylight savings time.
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