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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 19 April, 6:30-8:30 |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny and no wind |
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| Conditions: |
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Small, Fast, and Clean |
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| Swell: |
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6.0ft @ 8s @ 310° |
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Tide: |
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-1.1 @ 6:10 |
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| Surf: |
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Waist High |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
Finally another dawn session with unkle and steve. Wind was howling the night before so I wasn't so sure how good the conditions would be but when we showed up it wasn't so bad. The tide was so low and the swell was so small that the size didn't look so good but we headed out anyway. We walked up the beach a bit, there are still rocks everywhere, I have no idea why since we haven't had much swell so you'd think the sand would be back. Unkle of course didn't wear booties so had to paddle out early and paddle up the coast whereas we walked along the rocks and paddled out. The waves were surprisingly fun. It was obvious leftover windswell because it was peaky and fast and died in many sections. Was tough to get a long ride but they were fun anyway.
Caught a couple of set waves that were maybe near chest high. Caught one nice set that began to close out, I tried to cut back and just ate it. Right after I popped up I saw steve embeded sideways in the lip of the next wave. Him and his board just taking trip over the falls. It was a classic moment, I wish I had photographed it. That wave was super glassy and about waist high and to see this person sideways in the lip, awesome. He got some good ones though, as did Unkle who got the longest of waves and took a long time to make it back.
With all this wind the water is still hanging tough on temperature. It wasn't too bad. I never realized until this year the pattern of spring tides for our morning sessions. In the middle of winter when we had the full/new moons the tide was uber-high for our dawn patrols. Now that it is getting towards summer, the full/new moons are uber-low tide for dawn patrol. Looking at a tide chart, the high tides start to cycle back towards dawn in the fall during the full/new moon.
Summary:
Winter "Spring Tides": Super High Tide for Dawn Patrol
Summer "Spring Tides": Super Low Tide for Dawn Patrol