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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 9 August 2003 6:30-8:30am |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny and Warm |
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| Conditions: |
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Super Small. Clean and Cold Water. |
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| Swell: |
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1.1' @ 12s @ 195° |
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Tide: |
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4.0 @ 9:11 |
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| Surf: |
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Shin to Knee High |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
You know when the SoCal Swell model is only showing two colors, blue and dark blue, you are in for a world of hurt in the surfing department. Even a trip down south will often show no waves. Unkle, Steve and I were still on to meet down south anyway. I was a little late and they had already worked their way up to look at one of the beachbreaks I sometimes called Signals. It was apparent early on today that no point or faux-point breaks would be working, and a beachbreak would be the only chance. I had to get out but those guys weren't to into it. We drove south, then back north, then back south again. Finally we ended up at the beachbreak near Emma and I started to suit up.
Unkle and Steve were not impressed and sat on the rocks as I headed out into the sub-knee high waves. The water was freezing. My legs were numb in my springsuit, and my arms were getting there too. It had been warm doing some bodysurfing in SB the last few days, I can't believe how cold it was down towards Ventura.
My surfing must have looked impressive enough for Steve, since he paddled out after about 15 minutes of watching me milk 8" waves into shore. About 15 minutes after that Unkle finally made it out. Steve and I tried to pretend that the water was warm and Unkle was being a wuss. Seeing 3 guys out on this flat day attracted quite a crowd. There were no other surfers out anywhere it was so small so every few minutes a truck would pull up with boards loaded hoping somehow we had some magical spot. When they saw us duke it out for the set waves which were at LEAST 12", they soon kept heading south. Eventually two other longboarders ended up near us, so this "peak" now had 5 guys on it, which probably equaled all of the people out between Rincon and C-street.
Amazingly, I actually had some real fun waves. I had a couple of good lefts that I squatted on and did some cat petting, that felt good. I hadn't been out in 2 weeks, so it just felt good to play in the water. I had a right or two that involved some footwork, and a couple of failed attempts to get to the nose. Went leashless in these monsters and only had to swim in twice, a new record. Interestingly enough, the Pacific Waverider C-Street report from 8:00 today simply reads "flat and unrideable". That pretty much sums it up, but we rode some.