|
|
|
|
| | | | |
| Date/Time: |
|
Tuesday, 12 August 2003 7:00-8:00pm |
|
| | | | |
| Location: |
|
North Goleta |
|
| | | | |
| Weather: |
|
Sunny and Warm, a bit offshore, Trunkable |
|
| | | | |
| Conditions: |
|
Not as clean as yesterday, but some hollowness |
|
| | | | |
| Swell: |
|
3.2' @ 8s @ 325° |
|
| | | | |
Tide: |
|
4.0 and rising |
|
| | | | |
| Surf: |
|
Knee to Waist High |
|
| | | | |
Board: |
|
Progressive |
|
Comments:
After getting the surprise of my life yesterday with some fun waves behind the Island shadows I figured I might as well try again. It was like a repeat of yesterday. Showed up to this warm water Island paradise where longboarders and shortboarders alike were trunkin it in knee to waist high very rideable waves. I'm not sure where the talented longboarders all came from, but guys were noseriding like no tommorow and in general just owning it. By contrast all the little shredder groms that usually blow me away by their talent werent' quite as abundanat. Perhaps since school is out they surf all day and leave the late hours for us working stiffs. Just a theory.
Once again I trunked it and used a rashguard. Today I took no leash which was good for my board control practice, but certianly held me back. My first wave I was taking off real late on a left and wasn't going to make it and forgot I had no leash so in bad form just fell off my board. Forget how much I rely on that thing when I really shouldn't. After swimming in I made sure to practice good form after that, which mainly meant I was doing a lot of rail grabbing when the waves were closing out.
I got one of the big bomber set waves towards the end. It most have been some freak rogue since it certianly seemed a bit bigger than waist high, but maybe it just seemed bigger since I've been in a surfing prison for a few months. It was a right that I managed to work down the line and as it was closing out I hit the lip but instead of coming down and losing my board into the sand I pulled out. The wave after that was a left that was smaller but plently clean. I crouched down and grabbed the rail and as it was closing out, the sun was setting behind the silohouted lip. A little miniture barrel was racing towards me but instead of trying to get inside this quickly forming tunnel I stood up and tried to hit the approaching lip and pull a little floater. Instead, I launced by board into the mouth of the approaching section and fell. Rats. When I got up the sun was just about down, and I could squint towards the sun and see dolphins riding waves in, fully jumping out of the water at times. On my left was a father and son and their trusted dog swimming out past the lineup. These guys took their black lab a few hundred feet offshore and he was just chilling. Everyone was just enjoying themselves in this little playland today. Goleta, the Goodland.