|
|
|
|
| | | | |
| Date/Time: |
|
Wednesday, 20 August 2003 5:30-7:30pm |
|
| | | | |
| Location: |
|
Sands |
|
| | | | |
| Weather: |
|
Sunny and breezy |
|
| | | | |
| Conditions: |
|
Small and mushy. Some fun sets. |
|
| | | | |
| Swell: |
|
5.2' @ 11s @ 330° |
|
| | | | |
Tide: |
|
3.5 and falling |
|
| | | | |
| Surf: |
|
Knee High with Waist High Rogue Sets |
|
| | | | |
Board: |
|
Progressive |
|
Comments:
The swell model was about double of what it had been the last few days of fun waves, so I figured today would be even better. Headed to the end of IV and decided to walk along the ocean instead of the bluffs. I did this the other day with Rio and the feet were free of tar, but today I had a few milimeters of tar built up on my feet by the time I got to sands. The waves looked small and junky but I was suited up and had to go anyway.
My first wave was an incredibly slow pile of junk, and when I went to pull out my feet were stuck to the board. I had two perfect footprints, like some kindergarten art project, on my board. This contiued for the rest of the session, getting stuck to my board via wax and tar, until my whole deck was black with tar. In addition to the tar on the beach, there were armadas of floating tar balls all in the water. I don't go to sands often, but it was one of my worst tar influenced sessions out there in over a year.
It wasn't too crowded and I managed to pick off quite a few little lefts and rights, most of which mushed out quick. The conditions started to improve as the sun was heading down and the wind was stopping. I saw Amy out there and started to surf with her for awhile. She was owning it on her short longboard and we got to catch up on the goings on. By this time I was super far to the left of the pack, and since many waves were closing out further up the coast, managed to drop in on sections that the main pack was pulling off. These led me all the way to the sand on "fun, workable, rights"
After ingesting my RDA of tar I was ready to head in. It was about that time that a guy on a red longboard came out and started whistling everybody off of "his" waves. Even before he had caught a wave or stood up he was whistling everybody out of his way. Kind of cocky. It was time to go in. Nice sunset.