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| Date/Time: |
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Monday, 1 December 2003 7:00-8:30am |
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| Location: |
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Deveraux |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny and OFFSHORE |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean, offshore combed |
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| Swell: |
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5.1' @ 12s @ 295° |
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Tide: |
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4.0 adn dropping |
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| Surf: |
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Waist High with some Chest High sets |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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032 ($7.81/session) |
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Comments:
Dawn patrol with Greggory. Head to Leadbetter at 6:20 and see perfect lines bending around the point, only they were about 6-12" and so we headed north where it was better yesterday. Buoys had dropped considerably since yesterday but surprisingly there were still waves up there. Paddled out and started out at the point and caught a few fun ones. The crowds were a bit unbearable out there, guys would get nice rides but then wouldn't share well with others. I got a little frustrated and paddled way deeper than everyone after a set that left me with nothing. I sat and waited for a set and saw a nice one that I paddled into. It jacked up a little faster then I had expected in front of the rocks and about half way down the face I blew it. That didn't help my cred out in the point pack so I slid towards the 2nd peak which was breaking in front of "the ledge".
Out near the ledge Greggory and I got a few waves, but our wave count was certainly low and disapointing, seems just when you had a wave to yourself someone would crawl out of the woodwork and be deeper than you. The ledge was certainly a deterrent. It was sucking up unlike I'd ever seen it before. You'd take off on a clean wave and shortly after that it would turn into a miniture Waimea shorebreak, complete with the wave within the wave. Surprisingly most surfers out there were adept at mastering the ledge, seldom did I see someone get jacked up by it. Excpet me.
At one point I was paddling out after a wave and just as a guy was coming by me riding on a wave I got sucked down into the ledge. I was paddling furiously but moving nowhere as the wave sucked me into it's abyss. Luckily I never hit bottom and the surfer regained control of the situation and didn't nail me. A few waves after that I got sideways in the soup and by pure luck slid between two exposed rocks, carrenning out of control towards Randall.
Speaking of Randall, he got the wave of the day while I was out there, a set waves that broke at the point and was one of the few to make it past the ledge. Had it sectioned out on him I would of been able to hop on board, but Randall cruised by. About an hour into it the ocean went silent. The fun waves were gone and we were left with scraps. Some cool guy paddled by me saying I should have been here yesterday, and I told him he should have been here an hour ago. Good times. 2 days in a row of fun waves.