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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 6 December 2003 9:30-12:00am |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny, slight breeze |
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| Conditions: |
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From clean and pitching out to mushy and rumbling |
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| Swell: |
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10.6' @ 17s @ 295° |
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Tide: |
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3.0 and dropping |
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| Surf: |
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Shoulder High with some Overhead Rogues |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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034 ($7.35/session) |
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Comments:
This was the most hyped up swell of the winter. It had been over a month since we'd had a good NW'er due to a high pressure system off of Alaska, so surfers were hungry. Wetsand was doing the typical pumping up, calling for DOH conditions at standout spots, Surf Countries Doug was pumping it up on KJEE, and people were poring out of the woodwork waiting for this one.
We formed a possee of Rio and Greggory leaving SB and heading south to meet Unkle. We opted to go out later and face crowds and perhaps a lower tide. We met along the PCH, it looked good and we paddled out to a slow point. The four of us hung out here for awhile and then we rallied to paddle up to Three Trees. Somehow it was only Unkle and I, Rio and Greggory were having fun at our intial spot.
Three Trees was much faster and with better shape, but with the crowds to prove it. People everywhere but somehow the spot was supporting them all. Unkle and I hung in on the very far fringes, catching the ones that sectioned out. These were really long rides with really long paddle backs. We were mostly keeping to the chest High or so ones and a lot of waist high ones, perfect shape, peeling and peeling. Sometimes a bomb would come in and I only caught one or two waves that were head high. These sectioned out a lot quicker and none of these provided quite the long ride. Unkle was just getting over a cold so he was slow and tired but did manage to pull into a couple of fun ones. I was getting tired, the bowl of cereal was not providing enough energy.
The tide was dropping rapidly and our little peak soon merged with the one up further meaning we were no longer getting waves all to ourselves but were having to back out as guys made it past the section that until then was our friend. I tried paddling into the pack and wrestling one down but it was packed. Saw Levin and chatted it up with him after he caught a screamer from way up top. Not bad for an old man shortboarding.
Soon Unkle and I were pooped and headed down to find the boys. Ran into Greggory and he convinced us to paddle out once more and catch a long one in. The paddle out was painful on the arms but catching one more wave in was a good time. Unkle caught long one and did his unknowingly Da Bull pose all the way to the sand. Afterwards it was time for a big ol'e lunch at the Nugget on the way home.