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| Date/Time: |
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Wednesday, 17 December 2003 6:30-8:15am |
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| Location: |
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Rincon |
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| Weather: |
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Pink sunrise amongst scattered clouds |
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| Conditions: |
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Warbly at first then clean |
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| Swell: |
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10.6' @ 14s @ 305° |
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Tide: |
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4.0 and falling |
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| Surf: |
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Waist High+, Head High Sets |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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043 ($5.81/session) |
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Comments:
Special Guest Report by Greggory:
"pope and i dawn patrolled rincon this morning. a few cars in the lot with people suiting up when we arrived, but we did our superman switcheroo (like when superman goes in the phone booth as clark kent and walks out as superman) and beat all the suckers in the water. 2 guys were already out, and one ran the walk to the beach so we paddled with him. as we got to the waterline we saw a nice line roll through and decided out best strategy was to paddle in at the cove and then make our way up the line.
well, flat water followed and we made a quick trip under a pink sunrise to our destination, chatting with the other surfer on the way up. some small lines rolled through yielding fun rides, but not a big payoff. as i hadn't surfed real waves in a while it was fun to get up to the front of the board and feel the wave supporting me up there, letting me get closer and closer to the nose. the sets seemed to consist of only one wave, meaning that the lineup stayed pretty crowded, but everyone was sharing so the crowd wasn't a factor. after about 30 minutes i realized that i hadn't even sat on my board as i kept picking off some smaller, waist-high ones then paddling out to grab another. maybe 4 times during our session a real clean-up wave would come through that was head-high, but for the most part the waves stayed in the waist-to-chest range. the crowd had peaked and fallen, and pope and i found ourselves in a good groove of catching waves. pope was getting his stepover to the front down pat, and i even saw him sneak in a stepback (as opposed to the shuffle) when retreating to his tail. for me, it was the first time i had ever dealt with an "exit strategy" from the nose (besides my typical pearl), and i actually figured out the shuffle-back on a few occasions. on a few i think i really got a toe-or-two over the front of the nose, which seemed to be notably more than anything i had done before (although i felt like i had been up there before). we were getting surfed out, but the consistency seemed to be picking up, until it finally just shutdown. pope had grabbed one in just in time, but i was out there trying to get in some ankle-slappers to no avail. then a clean-up wave came through, catching me sleeping, and i finally put my tail between my legs and paddled in.
overall the conditions were good, and the crowd was manageable. the lines on the mid-size ones weren't super clean, but certainly enough to be a load of fun.