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Santa Barbara Area Surf Report

 
    
Date/Time:   Thursday, 9 January 2003, 12:00-1:30  
    
Location:   Coal Oil Point  
    
Weather:   Cloudy but offshore  
    
Conditions:   Big and a bit messy. Sectioning Out.  
    
Swell (Harvest Bouy):   6.7ft @ 14s @ 285°  
    
Tide:   3.4 @ 1:36  
    
Surf:   Overhead Sets, A lot of Water moving  
    
Board:   Walden  
    
Comments:   Kristi and Bill were heading out for their first session at Coal Oil since being involved with the incident on Sunday so I met up with them. The swell angle was so westerly that Coal Oil was acting like a beachbreak, sectioning out in a lot of places except for the very point. I started out with them at Tree, catching a few chest high rollers. Afterahwile, I headed up to the point. Some big waves were coming in, and I was amazed by how much water they had in them and how fast Deveraux of all places was breaking. Caught a couple of head high ones that sectioned out on me and kept getting deeper in the lineup. I tried to catch a couple of smaller ones and ended up inside on a set. I severely got in some guys way that was about to take off on a macker. No amount of apologizing to him made be feel ok about it so I made sure to stay outside and not be a kook. This paid off as I got 2 big waves in a row. These were not really the biggest waves I've had at Coal Oil, but the heaviest.

The first one was a bit of a late takeoff that then left me with only a short ride before it dumped. Never before have I had that much water crash down behind me. It was unreal seeing this huge mass of water behind me, slowly catching me and swallowing me. It felt like Mavericks, where the guy just gets swallowed by a wall. Only it was 10 times smaller. The 2nd wave I managed to make a couple of sections and got a much longer ride before yet again the entire ocean crashed on my tail and swallowed me. Thing is, these waves didn't really rag doll me and hold me down like I've had my last few sessions. It was pretty mellow for all that water.



 
    
   
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