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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 5 July 2003 6:30-7:00 |
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| Location: |
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Mesa |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny and warm |
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| Conditions: |
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Slightly bumpy windswell |
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| Swell: |
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5.3' @ 8s @ 335° |
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Tide: |
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3.5 and falling |
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| Surf: |
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Knee to Waist High Windswell |
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Board: |
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6'2" |
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Comments:
After a slow day trying to recover from the 4th of July party I headed down to the Pit with K-dog. I figured I'd keep the trunking it tradition going even though my rash still looked like it would hurt. I'm trying to figure out why they call it a rash guard if my nipples are rubbed raw from my rash. I went leashless into the shorebreak and it was much colder than down in Santa Monica, but still bearable. It was pure bumpy windswell but the size was ok. The waves were tough to catch but I managed to get into a few rights and a few lefts.
About 20 minutes into it, the rash was starting to hurt. I was trying to move as little as possible while paddling to avoid the rash. I'd lose my board into the beach and when I headed back out I'd try to walk as far out as I could before jumping on that death trap of a board and get my belly rubbed even more raw. I was ready to come in when I caught a really right that even got a little hollow on the inside. I paddled back out and by the time I got outside I realized I must go in and let the belly rest. Ow.
Afterwards, some Mexican Fresh on the Mesa. Bueno.