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| Date/Time: |
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Sunday, 6 July 2003 4:00-5:00 |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny and warm but breezy. |
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| Conditions: |
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Crossed up with much mush with the occaisional hollowness |
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| Swell: |
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4.5' @ 8s @ 330° |
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Tide: |
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3.6 @ 11:04 |
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| Surf: |
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Knee to Waist High Windswell |
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Board: |
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6'2" |
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Comments:
After yesterday's short session made unbearable by the rash on the stomach and nipples, I decided today I'd have to forego trunkin it and go back to the springsuit. I was heading south to Ventura, the traffic was bad, but I checked out the different spots on the way. La Conchita (going left) was looking like a fun little break, but I ended up at the end of the road. Far from the sleepy campground of late, Emma Wood was filled with folks camping and basking in the glorious weather. It looked very unorganized out there but was still tempting.
The springsuit and the leash came on, as did a ton of wax that had melted off in recent days. The lineup was pretty crowded, and much further north than it has been recently. Since I've only been surfing there on South swells recently, it was bit different out there on a pure NW windswell day. There were some lefts but mostly it was rights. They were thick and carried some meat, and were tough to get into. My first 5 waves I couldn't make the very first section and got stuck eating foam. I finally managed to catch one epic right, it was real fast and I actually for the first time on this board managed to cut hard enough to throw some spray. Babysteps.
Everyone out there was covered with Aussie style Zinc oxide on there faces so it looked like I was surfing with a bunch of ghosts. Also I'm noticing quite a few broken noses of boards, ducktaped over with grey or red tape, and still surfed on. This must be some sort of new style I'm not in on yet. That, or these boards are so thin now that the noses break off too easy. Speaking of which, I'm getting some stress cracks on my nose already and I measured the board to barely be over 2" thick. I saw one guy and one girl get close out cover-ups, both expertly positioned as if they were surfing in Indo.