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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 12 July 2003 6:30-8:30am |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Marine Layer along the coast. Warm water. |
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| Conditions: |
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Really Clean and glassy. Small but fun sets. |
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| Swell: |
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3.7' @ 10s @ 310° |
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Tide: |
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2.5 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Knee to Waist High |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
After a nearly a week of not even touching the water I was due for a longboarding session down towards Ventura with Unkle. We met at our 6:30 pre-appointed time and suited up right away. It looked small but I was anxious to see how the springsuit felt for a dawn patrol. It ended up being just right, the water is so warm right now that even for the early morning sessions a springsuit is perfect.
We ended up paddling out and catching a few knee high waves. The shape was really great, fast and peeling and glassy. With the marine layer, and the glassiness, it was tough sometimes to spot the lip, since it was blending in with the sky and the rest of the sea. I caught a couple of long ones where I'd be able to fade to the left and the turn and try to step to the nose. The wave was ready to support me pretty far up, but no real nose-riding for me. I got a really long one that started out about waist high and ended up less than knee high in the shallows. The wave of the day by far goes to Unkle, who took off on a waist high wave way too far back on his board. He must had his back foot behind his leash plug or something, because as soon as he was up his nose popped up in the air like he was trying to kick out of the wave. I don't think he was expecting it, but his keen reflexes caught the board before it hit is face. He then fell down with it into the soup and dissappeared from view. I fully expected to him to pop up with a big post-wipeout smile, but must to my amazement he pulled a kelly slater-esque in the soup recovery and was back up and riding. Bravo. He managed to step to far back on the board a couple of waves later, but couldn't muster the recovery like this.
The vibe was really good out there for most of the time until agro goggles guy came out. We hadn't seen this guy nor his 12' board in somewhile, and he made sure he sat as close to us as he could. We slid on down to another peak but by this time we had had our fill. I caught some sub-knee high waves into the sand, as did Unkle. It was good to hit up the traditional saturday morning longboarding session with Unkle. After doing so much shortboarding lately, it felt really good to longboard in the warm, glassy water on a saturday morning.