|
|
|
|
| | | | |
| Date/Time: |
|
Tuesday, 22 July 2003 7:30-8:30pm |
|
| | | | |
| Location: |
|
Pipes |
|
| | | | |
| Weather: |
|
Marine Layer with onshore wind |
|
| | | | |
| Conditions: |
|
Small and chunky, some fun sections |
|
| | | | |
| Swell: |
|
2.7' @ 11s @ 285° |
|
| | | | |
Tide: |
|
4.0 and dropping |
|
| | | | |
| Surf: |
|
Thigh High, some waist high rogues |
|
| | | | |
Board: |
|
Progressive |
|
Comments:
I gave up on the 2" thick 6'2" I was riding and was meeting the guy in Oxnard who I sold it to so I figured I'd hit up what looked like a south swell down in Ventura on the way. On the drive down Santa Claus Lane looked *epic* but once down past Rincon it looked pretty sad. Even Emma looked cruddy so I thought I'd check out the Point. The fair is starting soon so all the rides were there, but no people yet. The waves looked small and junky but my job was frying my brain so I had to get out.
Once out I was no longer cold and tired and gloomy like I was sitting and watching the waves. I was refreshed and excited to get wet. This was my first time on the big giant 7'2" "shortboard" that been my transition board between longboarding and shortboarding. One thing I noticed different was that I was getting pummelled on the duck dives, even though the waves were small. I could duck dive the 6'2" without even trying.
The waves were much more fun then they looked when I was checking them out. They would break rather quickly in shallow water but they were long and they had enough power to make some turns. I couldn't figure out if I was longboarding or shortboarding on this board and managed to surf like a clown. A shredder that I've seen out at Emma a lot was here, a buzzed head guy kid with a goatie. He was owning the spot but not hogging it, a nice balance for a ripster. I was not ripping since I have just not been surfing enough lately.