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| Date/Time: |
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Tuesday, 3 June 2003 6:30-7:30pm |
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| Location: |
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Rincon |
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| Weather: |
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Foggy |
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| Conditions: |
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Small and Clean breaking in shallow water |
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| Swell: |
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3.7' @ 10s @ 305° |
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Tide: |
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3.5 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Waist High Sets |
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Board: |
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Progressive |
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Comments:
So burned out and tired after driving 5 hours round trip for the PJ concert last night that I thought I shoulda went to sleep. However I'm glad I went surfing cause it gave me a lot of energy and turned my day into something usefull. I pulled up at the indicator and it didn't look good. Being tired and cold from fog didn't inspire me much but a guy catching a nicely shaped left did. I hustled out there and was surfing with a guy on some soft top longboard and 2 shortboarders. It was a good session with lots of waves to be had, if the soft top guy didn't keep paddling past us and taking all of the waves.
It started out as a bunch of fast and quality lefts. Probably about waist high on the sets and pitching out a little bit. The soft top guy kept trying to get slotted but I never saw it happen. He had some good form though, although it was tough to be excited about that when he was abusing the rest of us with his wave hogging. One of the kids got a little barrell on a left and I tried but never did. The water was smooth and clear and a pod of dolphins heading south came thru us really close. I was having a lot of fun on those lefts.
Soon I started hanging out a little more to the left and catching rights. The lefts seemed to start shutting down and the rights started to take over. The kids left and it was just soft top and I splitting the peaks. We must have split peaks on half a dozen waves while it was just us out there. The unspoken system was working well with him going left and me going right. Soon a couple more guys came out and the system was thrown into chaos, but I was about done anyway. I tried forever to get a left that would take me out of the rocks so I could get to the beach but the lefts just weren't working anymore. I ended up finding a really fast rail grabbing one in.
The water is still nice and warm and June Gloom is in full effect.