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| Date/Time: |
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Sunday, 8 June 2003 3:30-5:30pm |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Foggy |
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| Conditions: |
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Bumpy and Cruddy |
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| Swell: |
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2.9' @ 17s @ 210° |
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Tide: |
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4.8 @ 5:45 |
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| Surf: |
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Knee to Waist. Bigger Sets. |
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Board: |
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Progressive |
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Comments:
Reading the surf reports all weak, I was pumped up on waves showing up on Sunday. The models didn't really show anything so i waited around until some long period stuff started to show, and figured there would be waves. A stop at Rincon showed choppy flat conditions and all points south showed the same. I came to making the call of going to Oxnard or further or justing getting wet, so i went out at Emma Wood. Up to then i had counted only a few souls in the water, but here there were at least a dozen and the waves looked makeable.
I hadn't surfed the inside here in a least 2 years, all of my experiences here recently had involved the overhead, so I had a lot of re-learning to do. I hated surfing here in high school because of it's bi-polar ability to catch multiple angles which just threw me off. I never got it wired. There was a huge pack of groms following in the Malloys footsteps out there. They had it wired, and they all acted as if they have been surfing there since time began.
The swell was obviously out of the south because the sets would just march across the reef from left to right. Of the 2 hours+ of surfing I only got 2 or 3 rights, the rest were all lefts. As I remember the wave was very sectiony and broke in multiple places, making wave knowledge key. The kids who had it wired would know when and where to take off, and I was left picking up what I could. A guy out there was on a 4 foot long Walden. It was the craziest board. Looked like a longboard had been chopped down to make a knee board but the guy rode it like a surfboard. He was the oldest and the top of the pecking order, but friendly.
My favorite wave was a left from a set that I managed to wrangle that was between waist to chest high. I managed to not kook the drop in by doing the patented railgrab and then straightened it out for a cutback and then as the wave sectioned out I hit the lip and came down. More agile than I usually am for a left.
The waves seemed to be getting better and better and by the time I left I figured the rest of the coast would look good. Not so, as I drove back up North it was still cruddy and small. I wonder if I was surfing in the in some kind of alternate universe.