|
|
|
|
| | | | |
| Date/Time: |
|
Saturday, 17 May 2003 6:30-8:30am |
|
| | | | |
| Location: |
|
PCH |
|
| | | | |
| Weather: |
|
Sunny and some clouds |
|
| | | | |
| Conditions: |
|
Bumpy from some crazy cross-swell |
|
| | | | |
| Swell: |
|
9.9' @ 10s @ 310° |
|
| | | | |
Tide: |
|
-1.0 and rising |
|
| | | | |
| Surf: |
|
Waist to Chest High |
|
| | | | |
Board: |
|
Walden |
|
Comments:
Yet again another report being filed 1.5 weeks after the fact. It was another session of meeting Unkle and Steve down along the PCH for some dawn patrol waves. Once again it didn't look promising but we all had to get wet so we did. The water was friggin freazing, I was in no way prepared for how cold it was. It must have been 5 degrees colder (seemingly) than up north of santa barbara. We stuck it out at our little three trees spot and the waves were surprisingly big. Some chest high rollers would come in, and they were fast. I caught a ton of fun lefts that were fast and short. Then I got pitched out on what must have been 4 of my next 5 waves. Totally smashed. Unkle caught a nice long one and the current and side-chop was running so strong it took him about 20 minutes to paddle back up to us. Steve then had a similiar experience and gave up and walked up the beach. It was certainly a tough paddle out with all of the short period waves crashing down on you.
Steve then proceeded to catch the longest wave I've ever seen him ride. It wasn't big, probably thigh high at the start to sub-knee by the time he stepped off on the mossy cobbles, but it went from three trees all the way down to the little creek. Amazing. After that we all went in, cold and tired from a fun day.