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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 31 May 2003 6:30-9:00am |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Foggy |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean small swell that pitched out |
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| Swell: |
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2.2' @ 17s @ 175° |
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Tide: |
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0.0 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Waist to Chest |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
After a surprisingly fun session last night up north, and Unkle reporting fun conditions down south, the saturday dawn patrol was on. Steve couldn't make it for mysterious reasons but Laguna St. co-hort Greg was able to join us. The drive down things didn't look promising. 70mph past Rincon and points south wasn't showing a whole lot of size. We met Unkle and decided to go without looking at it. We were glad we did.
Today had to be the most outstanding session with 3 people I've had all year. I've had good solo sessions, and good session where the other person flounders, and vice-versa, but today all 3 of us were on the wave treadmill. We were getting fast, long, good shaped waves for over 2 hours straight with few other people to worry about. I'm declaring today one of the all time days for Unkle. I think bringing Greg along made him raise the bar on his surfing, and he was catching waves left and right, taking off late and deep, and making stuff I've never seen him make. It was epic. Greg was also a surfing machine, especially for only having surfed 2 times in the last 2 months. He without a doubt caught the longest wave, probably as long as Steve's epic journey 2 saturdays ago at the same spot, but bigger.
I had the highest longboarding wave-count I've had in months. So many memories they are tough to single out. I remember a long, long, time ago Surfrider Foundation had a commerical on TV and the end of it was that epic Pipeline ride where I think it was Mark Foo getting spit out of the tube and raising his arms in the air as he fades out the back. I didn't do the spitting out of the tube thing. But numerous times my rides were so fun that as I kicked out, I had the biggest stoked grin on my face that I'd just raise my hands and fall into the water. It was that fun.
My footwork on the longboard today was nearly non-existant. I was a trimmer. I stood, faded, did a big bottom turn and gunned it down the line. At first half of the waves I'd try to come up to the lip and I'd lose all power and fall out the back. It was a fickle wave to stay on, you had to find the sweet spot and stay in it or you were simply rejected. My worst ride was a rather late take-off on a set wave where I pearled straight down. I landed on my back somehow and it hit hard enough to take a breather for a few waves. The waves were pitching out so much that barrells were possible. I tried to tuck into some when the waves sectioned out, but it was not happening.
All in all a good day, followed by some breaky at Duke's in Ventura.