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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 22 November 2003 10:45-12:00 |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny, light onshores |
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| Conditions: |
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Closing out often, unexpectedly clean |
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| Swell: |
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7.8' @ 9s @ 315° |
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Tide: |
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3.0 and dropping |
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| Surf: |
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Thigh High |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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028 ($8.92/session) |
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Comments:
Massive 6.9 foot high tide just after dawn this morning so Unkle and I forewent the usual dawn patrol and met during a reasonable tide. Points were not working so we went out at the little beach break near his favorite post coffee porta potty. An armada of Japanese surfers were out with us and after awhile a guy with the exact same board as me, and although it seemed crowded the peakiness and the current kept things well distributed. Waves were going left and right, short period windswell that would break quickly. Worst wave was one I tried to tuck into and got a quick cover up but it was so small I stood up thru the back of the wave. Tried to bring the board over the back but it went down over the falls, flipped over and I fell on the fins. No cuts, but still bruised a few days later.
On the drive back the spots where the the tide was too high and waves were on the rocks was now looking like the tide was too low and all the cobbles were exposed. Also, wind was howling onshore at Santa Claus Lane, but quite offshore in Summerland. At my ranch there was a stiff wind out of the west and quite cool at that.