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| Date/Time: |
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Friday, 3 October 2003 4:30-6:00pm |
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| Location: |
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Mesa |
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| Weather: |
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Partly Foggy |
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| Conditions: |
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Big(er) and Mushy |
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| Swell: |
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5.3ft @ 12s @ 265° |
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Tide: |
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5.0 @ 4:55 |
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| Surf: |
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Waist High at best |
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Board: |
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Roberts |
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Comments:
Pete and I rolled up to a beachbreak that I hadn't surfed since a Pitiful session in the middle of summer. There were about 20 groms out, all dropping into waist to chest high closeouts with an occaionsal bigger rogue. Pete and I paddled out and caught a few, but the dry sand only a few feet away was holding us back. We noticed the Point up North a little bit seemed to be rideable but no one was up there. We caught one in and walked up there. When we got up there we thought we knew why no one was up there: it looked small and un-ridable. Not one to take defeat, Pete saw a glimar of hope. I'm glad he did.
We ended up paddling out and although the lulls were long, my first ever experience at this spot was magical. We didn't know where the rocks were or where to sit in the lineup, but we soon figured it out. About once every 15 minutes a big rogue set would come in. I casually commented after one head high monger that it quite possibly could have been the biggest wave this spot has seen in 6 months. We sat about half way out and caught the more frequent smaller waves that were mushballs and tough to shortboard on, but once they made it inside, they would suck up in waist high racers, glassy and barrelling. Grins.
Soon a grom came out and paddled right past us. He waited a good 15 minutes but his wait was worth it as he caught what was, at the time, the biggest wave we'd seen all day. He ruled it too. He soon fell out of my good graces, when as he was paddling back out, spun around and began to take off on a wave I was paddling for. Since he was deeper I pulled out and told him afterwards I thought that was highly un-cool, there were 3 of us out, and there were plenty for everyone. He responded with, "There are too many good waves going un-ridden." ouch.
A few more groms came out, the tide started dropping and boils started showing up. The take-off was becoming much more fun and the whole wave racier. I caught two great waves in a row, the first time I had gotten a long, decent sized wave on the Roberts, although my style was horrible. Slow to adapt to new boards, I was a complete hack going down the line.