|
|
|
|
| | | | |
| Date/Time: |
|
Thursday, 9 October 2003 5:15-7:00pm |
|
| | | | |
| Location: |
|
Mesa |
|
| | | | |
| Weather: |
|
Sunny and then heavy marine layer |
|
| | | | |
| Conditions: |
|
Clean, glassy, closing out |
|
| | | | |
| Swell: |
|
12ft @ 17s @ 310° |
|
| | | | |
Tide: |
|
2.0 and rising |
|
| | | | |
| Surf: |
|
Waist to Chest High |
|
| | | | |
Board: |
|
Roberts |
|
| | | | |
Wetsuit Sessions: |
|
007 ($35.71/session) |
|
Comments:
Headed to the Mesa to meet Pete. Got there first and checked it out. Didn't look as good as I had been hoping it was. The beachbreak was working pretty good, not closing as much as last time, but the point to the north had nothing going on. Headed out to the beachbreak and caught a few before Pete came out. We sat to the right of the main peak and picked off the ones that swung wide, and also got some fine lefts. Many were head high closesouts that we didn't catch, but we caught many waist and chest waves that didn't take us very far.
Pete caught the wave of the day, a hairy right hander that was breaking beyond our position. I paddled toward the pocket but was going to be too late, so ducked under, while Pete paddled for the shoulder and got a nice ride to the sand. Funnest wave was a right where after I got up it felt like I was tow in surfing, because the wave was holding off a bit and there was no juice in it, so I faded into the pit and then cutback to the right, and at the point the whole thing sucked up into 1 foot of raw, sandy water, where the back of the wave was as thick as a truck. It felt like Teahupo (sp?) looks, only 1 million times smaller. I was ducked in for a second but then at the last second dove thru the backside, and managed to not get sucked over the falls.
The tide was rising and things started getting funky. A lot of stuff was holding off and breaking on the beach. Only the big outsiders were breaking in deeper water, and those typically closed out. Pete headed in and I caught a few more. Tried to do a rail grabbing left for a barrell, and then I straightened out and caught my outside edge and faceplanted. No good sunset tonight since it was too foggy. No moon either.