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| Date/Time: |
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Friday, 10 October 2003 6:15-8:00am |
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| Location: |
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Rincon |
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| Weather: |
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Overcast with offshores |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean and glassy, pitching out inside |
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| Swell: |
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12.6ft @ 12s @ 305° |
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Tide: |
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3.0 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Chest High+ Sets |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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008 ($31..25/session) |
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Comments:
It's not often I'm a guy who catches a stand out spot on a good day. I typically shy away from crowds and sometimes my schedule doesn't put me in the big spot and the big time. Today was perhaps the first time I feel lucky enough to surf the Queen of the Coast on a perfectly fun day. I was the 6th car in the parking lot and the sun was still 50 minutes from rising. I headed out without even looking at it, cause I was going no matter what. I had the LB and SB, and I took out the longboard. Walking up the beach a bit, I could see the bioluminescence (
thanks google) in the breaking waves in certain spots. Paddling out I could also see it in my strokes, the first time I'd seen it during our latest red tide, although the red tide has been around for over a month.
I got out in front of the long glass house, which is now under re-modeling it appears. It was me and 3 or 4 other guys, but it was such a steady influx of people over the next hour I didn't have much of a chance to take advantage of being one of the first out. At first I couldn't see what I was doing. I took off on a few waves and they were faster then I was expecting. The offshore breeze was holding the lips up, and the lights from the freeway were lighting up the spray. As it got more and more light I got some really good, long waves. I think I improved my surfing more today, surfing in good waves, then all summer of fooling around. Nothing like a long Rincon wave, where you can come up on the lip, go into the pit, cutback to the foam, try to get to the nose, and do a railgrabbing search for a cover up...all on the same wave and over and over to really improve your surfing.
I caught a fair amount of waves even though it was crowded. Usually at Rincon I don't get my share, the guys who are there every day have it wired and I pick up some scraps. Today stars were aligned and I was picking off some key waves. One of the best was a set a guy spotted and said, "Here she comes." I'm never the guy catching that one outside wave that everyone is scrambling for, but the first guy couldn't get in it, so off I went. Perhaps my longest Rincon wave ever, from the top of the pack to the freeway. My last two waves were also aweseome. A bit smaller they were, waist high, but perfect form that allowed for cutting back and stepping towards the nose. As both of them hit the inside of the cove and straigtened out to close out, I stepped forward to the nose, grabbed my rail, and pretended to get covered up. Only a surfer knows the feeling.