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| Date/Time: |
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Monday, 13 October 2003 6:15-8:15am |
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| Location: |
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Rincon |
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| Weather: |
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Clear with Misty Fog shortly after sunrise |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean, Glassy, Low Tide Racers. Some sectioning out. Warm water. |
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| Swell: |
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13.7ft @ 17s @ 315° |
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Tide: |
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2.5 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Shoulder High Sets, some Head High. |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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012 ($20.83/session) |
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Comments:
Some long period swell but super steep, the tide was looking in favor of a pre-work session. Trying to continue the good luck I headed to Rincon once again for another pre-dawn session. This time there was no fog so the moon was a big help in suiting up, paddling out, and catching some waves. The monday swell must have caught some people off guard, there were 5 less cars in the parking lot when I arrived and in general the crowds were 3 to 4 times smaller then Friday morning. I walked up the cove a bit and paddled out at the
Whip Lady's House (Tim emailed to let me know the house I've been calling in my head the "glass house" he'd been naming "The Whip Lady's House"). Water is so much warmer then up in Pismo, but my feet were getting killed on the rocks. I paddled out into what seemed like a big set. There was one other soul out there somehow, a kneeboarded me thinks, and this set creamed me on my way out. It was too dark to really tell how big it was, but at that point I was thinking it was overhead. As it turned out once the light filled in, only the biggest sets were head high, but we really had some consistent chest to shoulder high action.
As I did on Friday, I flailed about until it started to get more light, and then I traded waves with about 4 guys for some while. I was catching a lot of good waves, but I wasn't surfing as good as on Friday. I only really got the to nose when some older guy who've I seen out there on a yellow board was hooting for me and yelling at me to get on the nose. Once I did, I bailed, but it was good encouragment anyway. I was doing good with my cutbacks and all, and I had 3 nice little mini-cover ups, but in general I wasn't that on. My best wave of the day was a maybe head high one where as I was taking off it was all walled up, I didn't think I was going to make the section. After I dropped in and pointed down the line the lip began to pitch a little bit, and I tried to duck in. What resulted was a great vacuum sound followed by my head getting pelted by the lip. I can't quite describe the sounds, but it was intense. I somehow made it out of my little mini-cover up (or getting smacked by the lip, depeding on your point of view), and kept going down. As the was further in the cove, I cut back and setup for the inside section and once again got a little cover up with similiar sucking and smacking sounds. It was awesome.
A good crowd out there, friendly folks the lot of 'em. Surfed until I was starving and faced the northbound traffic.