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| Date/Time: |
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Sunday, 19 October 2003 5:00-6:00pm |
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| Location: |
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North Goleta |
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| Weather: |
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Sunny, wispy clouds, no wind |
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| Conditions: |
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Big Closing Out Barrells |
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| Swell: |
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9.5ft @ 14s @ 305° |
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Tide: |
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4.6 @ 5:07 |
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| Surf: |
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Chest High. |
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Board: |
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Roberts |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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016 ($15.62/session) |
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Comments:
2nd day in a row of longboarding points in the morning and shortboarding beachbreaks in the afternoon. Today at fist I felt like a superhero cause I was dropping into closeout barrells with reckless abandon. Yesterday the waves were so breaking so shallow I wasn't doing that, but today I was going for everything. For at least the first 15 minutes. Then it got old getting 2 second rides that ended in the wave putting me and my board, sometimes together, thru the ringer.
So I grew more cautious. Everyone left the water except for me and a bodyboarder, who had the preferred tool for the conditions. Soon he left and it was me dropping in and getting slammed by the lip, to the giggles of the yahoo's watching from the beach. The waves were pitching out, and as they did you could see thru the tunnel sometimes and see up the coast. The water was warm and glassy and clean. Everything was perfect but we needed a sandbar or something to bring some make-ability to the place. After only 45 minutes I called it quits. After 4 sessions in 2 days I was too tired to do much out there.