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| Date/Time: |
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Monday, 20 October 2003 5:45-7:00pm |
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| Location: |
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Sands |
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| Weather: |
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High 70's, touch of fall breeze |
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| Conditions: |
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Slightly bumpy from the tide, but clean and pitching out at times |
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| Swell: |
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6.0ft @ 14s @ 310° |
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Tide: |
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4.6 @ 5:07 |
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| Surf: |
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Head High Sets |
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Board: |
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Roberts |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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017 ($14.70/session) |
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Comments:
So tired from 4 sessions in 2 days, I could not rally for a dawn patrol. Instead headed to Sands and hoped I could get the last of the swell. I was curious how it had been the last few days, and when I saw the parking situation, I knew it must have been good. Parked the furthest away I've ever been and jogged on down there. It was crowded, but no more then some flat days so I wasn't bummed. Paddled out to the main peak and the longshore drift was strong, I was getting pulled in front of the house before I even made it out.
The high tide was screwy, some waves would jack up outside and not break, sometimes they would break. There were some lovely mackers outside that would peel forever, for a beach break anyway. I only had a little daylight to work with I started catching a lot of waves. These were probably the biggest waves I have had my Roberts in, and it worked out great. Still trying to get used to the thing, it has a sweet spot that is awesome, but once I'm out of the sweet spot it is flounderville.
Caught a bunch of waist and chest high waves on the inside for awhile. Then I got caught inside by a rogue set. which wasn't a problem as far as ducking it, but it was a problem as far as being in the way. So then I sat outside with them and we would all miss waves. It was frustrating. There was no reason to sit so far outside since there was no longboarder way out there, but still, these guys would be way outside missing all the waves and giving stink eye for you being insde and actually catching them. My best wave by far was a head high right that offered a steep takeoff, I cut back in between two guys paddling our without hitting either of them, then stalled and got a quick little head dip before racing down the line to it's waist high terminus.
Towards the end I started to flounder. Stood up on 2 waves in a row that I actually hadn't caught. I gave a guy a wave, and he didn't go for it, so i went and at the last moment realized he had heard me and was going for it. I felt like an idiota. Felt even more stupid since I botched the wave. It started to get dark and the walls were gettting black and it was getting tough to see people on the inside. Finally caught a head high closeout in. The kind that you start heading down the line on until you realize it is going to dump along the whole beach, so you straighten out and it just explodes behind you. Fun session.