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| Date/Time: |
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Wednesday, 22 October 2003 12:00-1:00 |
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| Location: |
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Sands |
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| Weather: |
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High 70's, slight breeze |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean considering it's windswell |
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| Swell: |
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5.9ft @ 10s @ 295° |
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Tide: |
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1.5 and dropping |
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| Surf: |
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Head High Sets. Some Overhead. |
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Board: |
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Roberts |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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018 ($13.89/session) |
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Comments:
Built a cheap rack for my bike out of PVC and took it on it's maiden voyage. Made it from the Storke/Hollister interesection to Sands in about 10 minutes, I think this will be a much better way to surf Sands. A few incidents, once my board hit a bush and started to drag along the gravel, you know, nothing major.
Upon first look I saw a few mackers out there. The crowds were light, maybe 15 guys spread out along the whole beach. I paddled out to the main peak right during a set that was overhead. Some of the biggest waves I've had to deal with getting under this season. The windswell was surprisingly clean, some were pitching out and most were sorta glassy. The problem was most of the waves had a 2nd bump on them, that would either fool you into paddling for a wave that wasn't breaking, or through you off when you were dropping in and pitch you out. I must have pitched 3 or 4 times today on takeoff, always because a bump would hit me just as I was standing up and I'd pull the pipeline-esque dive from the pitching lip move.
It soon became apparent that I really like shortboarding once the conditions are good. I had many huge cutbacks, at least huge for me. One way I probably had my most powerful cutback ever. The waves were powerful enough to lay into the rails, and my board and I were handling it all. The wave where I had my most powerful cutback ever was a backside left where I dropped in late and once I made it out in front of the wave I swept back with a huge bottom turn and hit the lip. It felt awesome. This was followed up by more bottom turns and cutbacks on other waves. Instead of skimming down the wave and pumping along, I was actually making well thought out bottom turns, up to the lip, and then cutback to the foam.
The waves started to get weirder. The big mackers were less frequent and with worse shape. I kept trying to get a good one in but always dropped into closeouts, so finally I caught a chest high one in and rode the cruiser back to work.