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| Date/Time: |
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Thursday, 23 October 2003 5:15-6:45 |
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| Location: |
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Sands |
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| Weather: |
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Warm, Wispy clouds, Windless, Great Sunset |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean but closing out too often |
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| Swell: |
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5.4ft @ 11s @ 300° |
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Tide: |
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2.0 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Head High Sets |
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Board: |
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Roberts |
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Wetsuit Sessions: |
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019 ($13.15/session) |
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Comments:
Post work session with Petey at Sands. Showed up and conditions looked similiar to yesterday but a tad bit smaller. Some big macking sets would pore through, often closing out more than yesterday. Walked up past the last set of rocks and paddled out. Littoral drift still in effect and had a diagonal paddle out in a set. Some big bombers broke on our heads and made us dive our noses to the seabed to seak shelter. Made it out into a group of a dozen guys at the 2nd peak.
Petey and I traded waves, sometimes nice set waves, sometimes dinky waves for an hour and a half. Feels so good to have a little power under you, to just crank down the line and hit the lip and have something there to push back at you. Caught a few chest highers and after one as I was paddling out Pete screamed by on the next one, hit the lip and pulled a little floater besides me.
The shape of the waves was questionable. Often it was nice and would pitch out at the peak and come screaming down to the right, and guys would get nice late takeoffs and be pitted. I saw a guy with a mag cover wave, he took off as Petey pulled back to not drop in, grabbed the inside rail, and formed his body into a small little barrel pitching out half way down to the trough. Everything was perfect and I gave him a little hoot and even congratulated him when he made it back to the lineup. I think he had an aussie accent. Or Irish. Tough to tell, but it was the wave of the day. Other waves would break way outside and offer zero chance of survivalbility. I guess that's what windswell at a beachbreak is all about.
I never got one of the truly big bombs, put took off on some head high ones. Favorite took me from our peak down to the main peak. Today I was focused on perfecting the cutback, and I wondered if I sprayed when I did it, so I told Petey to keep and eye out. He told me on that one I thru mad spray, but I could never tell if we was joking or not. After this I paddled out into the longest set of the day. Must have been 10 waves or so, pounding me into submission as I feebly tried to make it outside. Feels so good to get pounded again. Saw some mad surfing skills out there today, better then average for Sands.