|
|
|
|
| | | | |
| Date/Time: |
|
Saturday, 25 October 2003 6:45-8:00 |
|
| | | | |
| Location: |
|
PCH |
|
| | | | |
| Weather: |
|
Warm, slight offshore, Wildfire weather |
|
| | | | |
| Conditions: |
|
small, clean and murky. red tide is back |
|
| | | | |
| Swell: |
|
5.3ft @ 10s @ 305° |
|
| | | | |
Tide: |
|
5.0 and rising |
|
| | | | |
| Surf: |
|
Thigh to Waist High |
|
| | | | |
Board: |
|
Perfecto |
|
| | | | |
Wetsuit Sessions: |
|
020 ($12.50/session) |
|
Comments:
Out till 2am supporting Blade's new venture as a club promoter, and doing some house/dog sitting at the folks house in ventura, I told Unkle if he wanted to surf with me at dawn he had to come pick me up. That he did, and at 6am we headed out. When we got to the beach the tide was already high. We knew it would be a whopping 6.5ft at 9:22 so we figured at 6:30 it would be around 3.0 or so. Wrong, it was up so far there was only a few square feet of beach between Rincon and C-Street. That we ended up finding and heading out to one of the little breaks that I hadn't been out in over 5 years or so.
I thought the red tide was gone, but it is back. Murky brown/red water everywhere. I also thought that it would be huge offshores and a south swell would start filling in. Wrong on both of those accounts also. Although the wind was a bit offshore, it wasn't raging like the smell of the fresh wildfires would lead you to believe. At this point all I knew was there was a fire near Piru, I had no idea some 300,000 acres were being consumed along with 13 lives and 850 structures. Made me feel guilty for hoping for the Santa Ana's.
We were out a little reef just down from a point. The point didn't seem to be breaking, or least breaking far from some rocks, so we hung out at the reef, which was more like a beachbreak. Mostly rights, knee, thigh and sometimes waist high waves. I didn't have the Walden on me so I borrowed Unkle's Gordan and Smith "Perfecto" model. A sweet board... 9'6" tall, 3" thick and 22" wide. 50/50 rails and a huge red 10' single fin. A lot different then riding the 6'6" Roberts or the 9'0" Walden tri-fin. That board had all the soul and style of a classic longboard with all the modern ammenties such as leashes, removable fins, sturdy fiberglass, and lightweightness.
Never got to the nose on it, and ended up trying to turn beyond it's ability too many times and eating it. The board was sturdy and would catch waves a good 3 or 4 strokes before my longboard would. Opened up a whole new world of wave-riding to me. Got a bunch of fun rights that sometimes pithced out. The sun rose over the hill at 8:00 exactly, perhaps the latest in the year since time changes now. Soon 4 guys were out at the point and another 5 out near us so we headed in.