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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 13 September 2003 6:30-8:30am |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Thick Fog |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean and Glassy yet mirky red tide water |
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| Swell: |
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1.2 @ 17s @ 235° |
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Tide: |
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1.5 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Infrequent Waist High Sets. Long, Clean Rides |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
The first dawn patrol of the season where I woke up and it was pitch black. I thought for sure my clock was off by an hour or something, kept checking as many clocks as I could to make sure it was 6:00 and not 5:00. The thick fog didn't help the light any better, and even as I started up my car I was ready for the clock to say 5:00. It didn't, so I drove south. Met unkle along the PCH. Steve was getting drug to some wedding and couldn't make it. When we pulled up it was the same old story, looked small and slow but shape looked good. We put on our springsuits and ventured out. As we were walking and paddling we saw some great looking peelers coming from up the way. It was tough to tell if they were 6" or 6' but they looked like winter to me.
We situated ourselves near our favorite clump of trees and started to trade waves. Our first hour was pretty insane, perfect little waist high waves that were glassy beyond words screaming down the line. I could just feel the winter right around the corner, and that didn't have to do with the fact we were dawning it with springsuits. Every little wave that broke no longer looked like the dismal summer waves we've been surfing in, but instead the waves had a bit of pride to them. Even though they were small they knew their bigger brother was just around the corner so they struted up to us and showed us what they had.
After about an hour of fun rights, the lulls began to get unbearable. What once seemed consistent was now coming in every 10 minutes or so. Unkle and I grew restless. We had a bunch of fun rides and now we were ready to call it so we headed in.