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| Date/Time: |
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Sunday, 21 September 2003 9:00-10:30am |
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| Location: |
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Pismo |
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| Weather: |
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Foggy |
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| Conditions: |
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Clean, walling out yet good for Pismo |
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| Swell: |
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2.2 @ 17s @ 200° |
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Tide: |
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4.1@ 8:15 |
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| Surf: |
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Waist High with some shoulder high sets |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
Headed out with Bill and K-dog in Pismo to get wet before heading to a wedding at The Cliffs. First time in the O'Neil fullsuit since June, reminding me I have to find a fullsuit solution this winter, and both my Rip Curls and O'Neils keep falling apart quickly. Yet another manageable Pismo session, where we could actually paddel to the outside without incident or trouble. We hung a little north of the pier, away from the Pier pack to establish our own little micro-peak. The shape of these waves was amazing... waist high peelers going left and right and pithching out. Most of the larger ones were too fast and simply closing out, but the smaller ones gave some screaming rides.
Was catching quite a few rights for some board walking and barrell attempts towards the pier. Saw Bill catch a few of the larger ones where there was nowhere to go but down. A set came in after that and I thought it was a left. It was shoulder high and fast and as I took off I realized that this was no left, but simply a top to bottom close out. I straightened out the 9'0" and instead of heading to safety I pearled the nose down and got launched. The next set after that I took off on another shoulder high left. This one had more hope and I made it down the line until I saw the whole thing rearing up to dump on down. I held my ground and hunched for the rail grab for my moment of barreled glory. Instead what happened is the wave crushed me down and I as I was getting sucked down down down my thigh got embedded onto my rail. Underwater I was reaching for my leg, trying to get a damage assement. Even at the surface it hurt so bad that I laid on my board and caught some white water in. At the beach I worked it out a little bit and came to the conclusion it was just a charley horse. I'm still limping.