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| Date/Time: |
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Saturday, 27 September 2003 7:00-8:30am |
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| Location: |
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PCH |
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| Weather: |
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Foggy |
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| Conditions: |
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Closeout Beachbreaks in pools of red tide |
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| Swell: |
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2.8 @ 14s @ 310° |
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Tide: |
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1.0 and rising |
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| Surf: |
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Pounding Waist High with + Sets |
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Board: |
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Walden |
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Comments:
The buoys yet again show near nothing on them, yet a jog by Coal Oil on Friday showed fun waves anyway. Headed south to meet Unkle and Steve and we knew we had to surf close out beachbreaks or not surf at all. In a morning identical to last week we head out near Emma into what appeared to be small closeouts. Unkle and I spring suited it once again, after getting in the water I swore it would be my last spring suit session of the summer. Red tide was still present, in really dark red patches that you could paddle out of and into clear water. The paddle out was tougher than thought, the waves had some power and were bigger than I thought.
The next hour and half conisisted of taking off on waist to shoulder high closeout waves, sometimes getting a good section, but more often than not getting pounded. A lot of cars trolling the highway in search of waves would pull up and watch. This was one of the only places breaking, and last week got crowded. However this week all the onlookers saw our feeble attempts to get any length of rides, and they drove on. One guy paddled out near us, but soon gave up hope and went back in. We stuck it out, and Steve was the hero of the day, charging in his fullsuit into all kinds of waves he wouldn't have attempted a year ago.
The wave direction was tough to figure out, they mostly were coming straight on, but a bit out of the north. Unlike last week, there was no chance of getting a left. If a wave was to let you on for longer then 2 seconds, it had to be a right. No boards were broken in our stupid attempt to get waves, and after an hour and a half of being brutalized we headed in.