Tuesday, June 08, 2004 @ 6:00 PM

 

Location: Mesa
Weather: Sunny with Strong Offshores
Conditions: Choppy and Messy
Swell: NW Windswell
Surf: Waist High

Comments:

Pete calls at Mesa and says he's going in so I head down there. The freeway is nuts from the fire I presume and once I get to La Cumbre a fierce wind sets in. On the mesa Eucalyptus trees are being shed of thier leaves and seeds, and these end up inside my car when suiting up. It's wickeldy windy and I'm wondering what Pete is thinking. Good for us the wind wasn't bad once in the water, altough the water is a mess with lots of chop and the offshores pushing water over the backs of the waves.

Flounder for a good half hour before catching a few waist high waves, perhaps a bit bigger that suck up and carry me down the line. Lots of double waves, lots of fake waves, lots of lips that disappear when you go to hit them. Made a few nice roundhouse cutbacks that felt glorious, but usually wasted all my speed on them and nothing saved up for recovery. The smoke from the fire was getting pushed out over the ocean, you could see it way up the coast and it looked like it was getting bigger and bigger. I ran over a kid once, I was blinded by the offshores dropping into a rogue and he tried to duck under me, but his butt was still sticking up in the air and instead of running over it I bailed.

Soon all the kids left and it was just Pete and I for 15 minutes, before the next wave of surfers came out. Pete and I split a peak on the way in, I going left in with a rail grabbing squat into the sun. Good times.



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