Saturday, July 03, 2004 @ 7:00 PM

 

Location: Malibu
Weather: Sunny
Conditions: Glassy and Clean
Swell: Swell?
Surf: Knee High

Comments:

Greg and I headed down the coast on the way to LA and searched for waves. It had been forever since waves had lapped against our shores in SB and we were hoping for some love down south. County Line and Sequit didn't look so swell and we got to the 'bu around sunset. We needed motivation, it was small, and greg provided it. Out came the trunks, off came the leashes and we were surfing Malibu proper for the first time in our lives.

Having never surfed Malibu, I had thought it would be crowded with a lot of attitude in the water. Not so it turns out, but maybe we got lucky. There were about a dozen or so surfers in the water, probably a few more people out there that were more like bouys though. We each caught a few knee to thigh high ones, the water was clean and clear and you could see the cobbled bottom. The waves were glassy. We made a friend out of a talkitive local guy who was super stoked we weren't dropping in on him and that we giving up a lot of waves, being at a new place and all. He kept getting snaked by the same guy on the inside, and that was a good conversation topic.

We only surfed for a half hour or so, each catching 1 or 2 good waves and a few others. It's amazing what a half hour of surfing will do to one's attitude.



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