Monday, September 13, 2004 @ 6:30 AM
| Location: | Carpinteria | ||
| Weather: | Sunny and Warm | ||
| Conditions: | Peaky with some luff | ||
| Swell: | Windswell | ||
| Surf: | Waist High Sets |
Comments: Evening glass off down in Carpinteria. Amazingly it was fairly empty all weekend but this weekday afternoon the water was full of shredding groms. Instead of the longboard and trunks I had the shortboard and the springsuit. The board was the right choice but the springsuit was too hot. Waves would peak up on the outside to the right and the left, with a bumpy rip current in between the two peaks. Some sets would break on thru the rip. I caught a ton of waves while still trying to respect the local hierarchy structure put in place over generations of carpsters. The lips were smackable and pitchable, a couple of nice close out cover ups and some failed floaters. Water was cleaner, not as much tar out there. What a summer.