Monday, September 06, 2004 @ 6:30 AM
| Location: | Montecito Coast | ||
| Weather: | Gloriously Sunny and Hot | ||
| Conditions: | Clean, Warm | ||
| Swell: | S-SE Hurricane Howard Swell | ||
| Surf: | Waist to Chest High Sets |
Comments: Labor Day dawn patrol with PeteII, which would be first session with the guy. We brought out the longboards and surfed for 2 hours with just a few other fellows. At first were catching any little thing we could, until we realized that the sets were pretty consistent in their timing and well worth waiting for. They would break much further out and scream down the coast until a nice little close out section on the inside. A couple of real nice and friendly guys out there, us all respecting each other, and working out a real nice system of sharing the set waves. This was until some grey hair guy came out, paddled past us all, and began to consistently try to backdoor us on the sets. You suck man.
What didn't suck was the sets, which had 4-6 waves each that were at times chest high. A lot of the waves were barrelling and I saw PeteII almost get into one, with grey haired reverse snaker guy behind him on the wave. A perfect combo. I did a lot of tucking and petting of the cat, but never could coax a lip over my head. Towards the end the lull between sets seemingly grew so we called it after 2 hours.
Later that day was 4 hours of beach time in Summerland, of which 3 of those hours must have been speant bodysurfing with a good crew to avoid the heat. Then it was to Kevin's house for some Cuban style Mojitos. Thanks man.