Sunday, October 03, 2004 @ 9:00 AM

 
Location: Central Coast
Weather: Overcast and Damp
Conditions: Mushy and Rogue
Swell: NW Windswell
Surf: Chest High at Best

Comments:

Session Two of Central Coast Exploration and it was time to hit Spot #2 based on Kevin's guidance. This spot also had a sandy bottom and wasn't too remote so it was a good starting point. This wave was like the ocean equivalent of a high pass filter, allowing only the longer period sets to break on it's sandbar while everything else broke on the beach. This meant long lulls in a seemingly flat sea.

There were only a dozen or so surfers out, and spread pretty far apart. I hate breaking someone's solo session by surfing their peak if there are plenty of others peaks around, but this was my first time out and I thought I could use someone near me in case this spot featured some unknown like the loch ness monster. I surfed near two guys with helmets that were very friendly and didn't seem to want to slash my tyres. The rip current was un-relenting. I spotted the rip from the beach and used it to paddle out. It shot me out thru a washing machine of crossed up waves and into the ocean open. The littoral current then proceed to suck me and my two new buddies south.

The best waves were lefts and I caught a couple that seemed like monsters. The drop was so full of bumps and skips it felt like Laird on some 30' wave with 2' chop on the face. The wave then entered deeper water and died out. This spot could be really fun on the right tide if I can figure that out.




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