Friday, November 19, 2004 @ 9:30 AM

 
Location: Central Coast
Weather: Offshore Winds
Conditions: Picture perfect day, A-Frames, barrells, spray...
Swell: 5ft running from the NW
Surf: Head High Sets

Comments:

Time for a new spot, this time even more North, and again I don't know it's name. Saw it off the highway, a nice peak breaking near some rocks near some houses. Took a few minutes to discover access to the spot and weather my tyres would get punctured or what the situation was with locals. The Surf Country racks certianly don't help fit in on the Central Coast, but it's not like I'm driving around with a Zuma Jay sticker or something.

The offshore wind was perfect, maybe a little too much on the heavy side but these waves may have needed it. The longshore current was heading south, I paddled out 100 yards north of a rockpile and ended up right in front of the rocks when I made it out after an ice cream headache or two. There was a pro foto looking guy out there snapping pics, and there were 6 of us on a peak that split both left and right in front of some hairy rocks. Being my first time I hung off to the side a little, trying to get the wave wired and learn the rocks and the currents. I was rewarded with a few quick rights, that sucked up and tried to go over my head. This was followed by 2 blown takeoffs in a row. My excuse is the offshores were making it tough to see. I then had my wave of the day, an overhead wave that I waited awhile outside for, took off right in front of the rocks. I made the bottom turn and tried to shoot down the line but wasn't quick enough, it sucked up and instead of the barrell of my life I jumped thru the back, almost dis-locating my shoulder in the process. I popped up a lot closer to the rocks than anticipated but luckily there were no waves behind it. Awesome session, I will be back.




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